Guide for prospective kitten buyers

How to choose a good cattery

The choice of good and legal cattery is crucial. By choosing good breeder, you not only buy a cat that is a real representative of the chosen breed, you also gain substantive and lifelong support. Be careful in making this determination.

A Polish Law Regulation changes from 2012 created an opening for back-yard breeders and kitten mills, allowing them to register in a newly created cat associations, that issue “pedigree” documents with no real value.

Please do not support pseudo-breeders or kitten mills that produce poor quality kittens. Buying from pseudo-breeders encourages them to produce more.

 How to recognize a good legal breeder

1. Check membership and affiliations with recognized cat organizations

Is the chosen cattery registered as a member of Felinology Organization under the patronage World Cat Congress (WCC) (http://www.worldcatcongress.org)

WCC brings together all International Felinology Organizations in the world. Currently there are 9 such organizations: FIFe, WCF, TICA, CFA, ACF, NZCF, CCC, GCCF, SACC (green marked are the most important in Poland).

Legal Polish breeders' clubs operate under the above organizations and comply with their guidelines and regulations that protect the welfare of cats (for example regulations limiting the number of litters of one breeding queen, or the minimum age for releasing kittens to new homes). A list of recognized clubs is provided at the bottom of this article.

Their pedigrees are recognized by feline organizations around the whole world. Membership in these organizations gives you the opportunity to participate in cat shows internationally.

 Check Breeder and Cattery reputation

• Do your research. There are plenty of internet sites about pedigree cats, catteries, cats’ owners sharing their experiences and knowledge about cats and breeders. Search for reviews, see breeders’ activity on social networks (pictures, information). Ask for recommendations. However, be careful in trusting everything you read, as some competing breeders can deliberately distribute lies about others.
• Go to a cat show and talk to the breeders there. Only legal breeders can participate in FIFe, WCF or TICA cat shows, so their presence eliminates verification of their legality.

 Visit the Cattery, meet the Breeder

• You can visit several catteries – but DO NOT do this on the same day to avoid spreading potential viruses or bacteria.
• A good breeder will be happy to show the conditions in which they keep their cats. Of course, visits can be limited or delayed to protect kittens against infections and unnecessary stress, but you should be welcome to visit the cattery to see a kitten (the dishonest breeder may avoid it - remove them from your list).
• Remember that breeding takes place in the breeder's apartment / house. Respect that.
• Does the breeder ask you to sanitize your hands and take your shoes off when you come in with kittens? Is this place clean?
• Listen how a breeder talks about cat, focus on knowledge, breeder’s behavior towards cats.
• Look around the cattery and assess the conditions in which the cats live. If the breeder does not want to let you in and brings you a cat out front of the building, do not buy a cat from them.
• Do not be guided solely by the price of the cat, less expenditure on the start can mean large expenses in the future. Cat treatment is not cheap.

Ask the following questions

• How many cats live in the cattery? If there are too many cats, remove the cattery from your preferred list. It is often impossible to provide care for many animals at the same time, and challenging to socialize kittens in these situations as well.
• What is the frequency of litters the mother of your prospective kitten has? One female should not be bred more than 3 times in two years, but good breeders usually make it less.
• Are kittens isolated from their mother? Can you see the mum or both parents?
• Determine if the kitten looks healthy. If it sneezes, or has watery, red eyes - be careful - maybe something is wrong.
• Check if the kitten looks healthy. If he sneezes or has watery red eyes, skin problems, dirty anus - be careful - maybe something is wrong.
• Ask for a kitten pedigree . EVERY cat from a legal breeding gets a pedigree, even if born with flaws. If the pedigree is not ready yet, ask to show your parents' pedigrees. A good breeder will not sell kittens without a pedigree. Do not accept any document that has a different name than 'pedigree' and does not have the FPL, WCF or TICA logo. If you were offered a cat with a birth certificate or certificate -> resign.
• Ask for the cat’s book of health. Check if the cat was dewormed and vaccinated. Vaccinations- kittens should be vaccinated against: FPV (feline panleukopenia) , FCV (feline calici virus) and FHV (feline herpes virus). Most veterinarians recommend starting the vaccine at 8 weeks of age, followed by boosters at 12 weeks.
• Check if the chip number is listed in the health book / pedigree. Ask in which database it is registered. Legal catteries are required to chip kittens.
• Ask what health tests your parents have . Breeds that are at risk of genetic disease should be tested before mating - lists of diseases and mandatory genetic tests are listed in the Breeding Regulations of legal clubs. Sphynxes are susceptible to HCM (hypertrophic cardiomyopathy). There is no genetic test for this breed, so the responsible breeder performs HCM echo testing for his breeding cats every year. Lack of these tests for parents of kittens is a serious warning signal because HCM is a serious disease and sick cats should be eliminated from breeding if this heart disease is found. In addition, legitimate catteries have tests for FIV (feline HIV) and FeLV (leukemia) infectious diseases.
• Ask for a selling contract. This is the basis for claims in case of any problems. Ideally, you should receive the contract before buying a kitten. It will enable you to review the document and prepare any questions. The general assumption is that selling contract should protect both a buyer and a breeder (and of course a cat).
• Ask if the cat will be neutered before pickup. Responsible breeders do not pass this stress and cost on to the buyer.

Felinological organizations in Poland:

1. FIFe Fédération Internationale Féline

is represented in Poland by Felis Polonia (FPL)

To FPL on are the following breeders' clubs:

City Club name

Będzin Śląski      Klub Miłośników Kotów Rasowych

Bydgoszcz           Cat Club Bydgoszcz

Bydgoszcz           Cat Club Animals

Głubczyce           Cat Club Feniks

Kraków                Krakowski Klub Felinologiczny

Lublin                   Lubelski Klub Kota Rasowego

Łódź                     Supreme Cat Club

Olsztyn                 Club 4 Cats

Poznań                 Felis Posnania

Rybnik                  SMK CC Rybnik

Sopot                   Cat Club Sopot

Sopot                   Cat Club Amber

Szczecin              Cat Club Pomerania

Warszawa           SMK Jedynka

Warszawa           No Problem

Warszawa           Elitarny Klub Kota Rasowego

Warszawa           Stowarzyszenie Polskich Kotów PFA

Wrocław              Cat Club Wrocław

Żory                     SMK Żory

2. WCF World Cat Federation

City Club name

Warszawa           PZF – Polski Związek Felinologiczny

Toruń                   SHK – Stowarzyszenie Hodowców Kotów

Lublin                   IBSCC – International British Shorthair Cat Club

Warszawa           SKR – Stowarzyszenie Koty Rasowe

3. TICA The International Cat Association

City Club name

Warszawa           Klub Kota X-Treme

If the above information did not exhaust the doubts about how to choose a good breeding, I encourage you to read the following sources:

1. https://www.koty.pl/sprzedam-koty-rasowe-bez-rodowodu/
2. http://www.olfaktoria.pl/2014/01/5-rzeczy-ktore-musisz-zrobic-zanim-kupisz-kota-z-hodowli/
3. http://swiatkotow.pl/strefa-wiedzy/artykuly/hodowla/art,259,jak-wybrac-dobrego-hodowce.html
4. http://www.kociesprawy.pl/magazyn/poradnik/prawo/jak_bezpiecznie_kupic_kota_rasowego_piotr_stachowicz/jak_bezpiecznie_kupic_kota_rasowego_caly_tekst/
5. http://viosna.pl/en/pseudohodowla/
6. http://pfa.org.pl/zanim-kupisz-kota/#
7. http://www.felispolonia.eu/public/reg_hodowlany_FIFe-2019.pdf
8. https://www.pzf.pl/pl/przepisy/regulamin-pzf

Sphynxes are one of the most loving, sociable and intelligent breeds of cats in the world. Their personality is a mix of cat, dog, monkey and baby features. This is a very social race. They attach more to their man than to the place, thanks to which they tolerate changes in the environment well, for example traveling, so that "their human" would be near. They love children and easily make friends with other animals, making them a wonderful complement to the family in which they flourish. They hate loneliness, the time when their people are at work or school sleeping, but then they would like to participate in everything we do.  

Sphynxes demand human attention and will do anything to attract her. They are curious, cheerful and energetic. If we are not at home during the day, the sphynx will be happy to have a friend in the form of another sphinx, another cat or even a dog. They like company, and more importantly, they like to have someone to hug so that it is warm. They love to stay close to their man, sleep with him on or under the covers. Think of it as a living hot water bottle for cold days.

Sphynx kittens are cheerful, curious and very, very energetic. With age, this ADHD cat stops somewhat, but they still like to play, especially chasing the fishing rod.  

Sphynxes do not know the concept of "personal space", they want to be as close to a human as possible, so they can lie on our face, neck, head, hug under the covers to our stomach or back, they can embrace us like a small child .   

Maintaining a cat is not so expensive, but the purchase of accessories for its care is a one-time, but necessary expense.

The cheapest way is shopping online at Zooplus 

The link below gives 10% of discount for Polish customers who have not yet used Zooplus platform.

10% discount for shopping on zooplus.pl

You will need:

1. Litter box

The litter box is one of the key items in the cat's "must have". A suitable litter box should first of all be quite large, and therefore have a length of min. 1.5 times the length of the cat's body (excluding the tail) and 1 length of the cat's body width. Cats like open litter boxes best, but if they can turn freely in the litter box, the covered litter box will be accepted. 

After trying many different litter boxes, these were the best ones for me https://www.zooplus.pl/shop/koty/kuwety_pielegnacja_kota/kuwety_kryte/klasyczne/300743

And for more than one cat, this is better:

https://www.zooplus.pl/shop/koty/kuwety_pielegnacja_kota/kuwety_kryte/kuwety_duze/315616

I remove the flap door so that the cats have easier access, not all of them could handle the flap.

I also have a model with top entry, it limits the spread of gravel very much. I don't recommend this litter box for older or large cats, but young cats seem to like these litter boxes.

https://www.zooplus.pl/shop/koty/kuwety_pielegnacja_kota/kuwety_kryte/kuwety_duze/692225

2. Litter

Generally, the more fine sand is in structure, the more readily cats will accept it.

After trying pellet and silicone litter and many different brands of bentonite, I won the bentonite litter Benek Compact. Koty same go wybrały- mając do dyspozycji kuwetę z Cat’s Best i Benkiem Compact, jednomyślnie wybrały Benka. Ten żwirek sprawdził się także u starszych maluchów.

https://www.zooplus.pl/shop/koty/zwirek_dla_kota/benek/compact/460195

An interesting suggestion is also Golden Gray cat litter, slightly heavier than Benek (contains the addition of silicone), but with a very pleasant smell of powder. I buy it less often because a 14kg bag is too heavy for me.

https://www.zooplus.pl/shop/koty/zwirek_dla_kota/zwirek_golden_grey/golden_grey_zwirek/32977

3. For a litter box with a traditional entrance you will need a WIPER :

If you have space, I highly recommend this one, it can be washed and scalded, and the litter that falls inside is easy to spill.

https://www.zooplus.pl/shop/koty/kuwety_pielegnacja_kota/wycieraczki_kuwete/147011

Trap-it doormats are a nice solution:

Of course, you can also choose the model below, but unfortunately it is difficult to remove all the litter from it, even a vacuum cleaner cannot cope here. In addition, when in contact with water it evaporates quite quickly.

4. Shovel

Metal shovels work best for me

The one below - the plastic one, also works well because it is hard, unfortunately it has a bit too large eyes and leaves small lumps in the litter box.

https://www.zooplus.pl/shop/koty/kuwety_pielegnacja_kota/lopatki/174512rrec=true&pr=subsubcategory1_rr&slot=8&exprienceid=5861&strategyid=81059

5. Odor neutralizer

Beaphar Multi-Frisch, tried by me and recognized as the best:

https://www.zooplus.pl/shop/koty/kuwety_pielegnacja_kota/odswiezacz_kuwety/145117

I also recommend a bactericidal powder AGRISAN PET

6. Cat carrier

Necessary for visits to the veterinarian, trips.

This model works best with us, opens from the top, which makes it easier to remove the cat from the vet. Unfortunately, it is quite heavy itself (3.5kg)

https://www.zooplus.pl/shop/koty/transportery_obroze_kota/transporter_dla_kota/138073?rrec=true&pr=subcategory2_rr&slot=2&exprienceid=3349&strategyid=31413

Another model worth considering due to the low price and the possibility of unfolding for storage (we separate two halves and put one into the other) is the Trixie model:

https://www.zooplus.pl/shop/koty/transportery_obroze_kota/transporter_dla_kota/602265

I use the bag every day because it is light. Attention, cats can open the zipper. 

7. Bowls

You will need a minimum of one bowl for water (but I always recommend placing several bowls or other containers of water in different places in the apartment), and one bowl for wet food (better to have more bowls, unless someone is washing up regularly). I recommend the bowls glass, porcelain, possibly metal, as they are easier to keep clean. Plastic bowls are indicated as one of the causes of cat acne on the chin, and it is also harder to keep them clean.

8. Protective mesh for window / balcony

Sphynxes, like other cats, are hunting animals. They follow a simple rule, if something escapes or flies away, you have to chase it. Never assume that a cat knows what it is doing and will definitely not jump out of an open window or an unsecured balcony. As they say, "guarded the Lord God guards."

I use this protective mesh. My five-kilo male climbed up after her and the net is successful for the fourth season.

https://www.zooplus.pl/shop/koty/drzwi_siataki_preparaty/ochronne_siatki_kot/343060

https://www.facebook.com/notes/koty-i-wszystko-o-nich/zabezpieczenia-okienbalkon%C3%B3wtaras%C3%B3w-i-ogrod%C3%B3w/713353202108887/

9. Cat tree/scratchers

There are many types of scratching posts available on the Internet. When choosing the best one, you have to look at the thickness of the sisal with which the posts are wrapped, you know the thinner the line, the faster it will fray. At least one bar should be high enough to the cat could extend its full length. For sphinxes, I do not recommend scratching posts upholstered in bright material, the covers of which cannot be removed for washing.

I bought my first cat tree on Allegro, of rather poor quality, but it lasted 4 years and it was the babies who beat it.

We have the cat trees from Zooplus. Zooplus

and our latest purchase - a scratcher made according to our design by Drapaki dla kota.pl. at a very attractive price

10. TOYS

Necessary, no matter if for a kitten or a mature senior. Cats are born hunters, hunting is essential to their happiness and health.

Telescopic rods are an ideal toy worth recommending. 

https://bigcats.pl/wedka-kolorowa-cool-spring-1m-p-286.html

Heating disk, heating mat

It is not necessary to have a disk, but it is very useful in winter when you need to go to a doctor with your cat in the carrier. Shaves get cold, and a microwave-heated disk keeps warm for up to 10 hours. Perfect for a transporter or where we cannot connect a heating pad. 

https://www.zooplus.pl/shop/psy/legowisko_dla_psa/poslania_poduszki/termofor_poduszka/59181

An alternative may be hot water bottle.

heating mat

The heating mat heats up by the pressure of the cat's body while lying down, the maximum temperature ranges from 40-45 ° C.

Unfortunately, this type has disappeared from Zooplus, so you have to look for current offers. Keep in mind that heating mats intended for humans will be too hot for your cat even set on the lowest setting, so pet mats that are not adjustable, but also without an auto-off function, are ideal.

12. Cat bed

Sphynxes like to sleep with their hoomans, but they should also have their own place where they will sleep when we are not at home, or hide from the world.

I like beds which I can use together with an electric cushion (only when it is really cold at home).

https://www.zooplus.pl/shop/koty/legowiska_dla_kota/budki_spiwory_kota/budki/59145

Unfortunately, the above beds do not survive many washes, they deform.

Besides Zooplus, beds can also be bought on AliExpress or ordered from people from FB sewing cat accessories .

13. First aid kit

• Cotton wool, cotton pads, wet wipes
• Ear cotton buds
• Ear cleaning fluid (Otiseptol, Otifree, Dermatisan, etc.)
• Octenisept or other antiseptic fluid (no phenol) for wounds
• Soft tip thermometer + petroleum jelly
• Claw cutter
• Probiotic (e.g. Bioprotect, Flora Balance or Fortiflora)
• Smecta, Diadog (for diarrhea)
• Saline, lubricating eye drops (artificial tears)

Cats nutrition

The cheapest is to get Zooplus or its Bitiba discount store. 

The link below gives 10% of discount for Polish customers who have not yet used Zooplus platform.

10% discount for shopping on zooplus.pl

Sphynxes require a good quality food to stay healthy and keep high level of energy. Such food helps sphynxes maintain a high body temperature. Avoid cheap cat food and pay attention to the content of meat % in the food. Many cat owners decide to switch their sphynxes to a raw diet - BARF, it is the most beneficial form of nutrition if you buy meat from a reliable source, not to stuff the cat with hormones, antibiotics and artificial preservatives in meat.

When changing food, it is worth adding a probiotic to the beginning, e.g. Forti Flora, Bioprotect, or Fora Balance. This is not necessary, but it can help the kitten's digestive system by adapting to new food. This does not apply to a change in the taste of the food itself.

Unfortunately, there is no only one best way to feed cats, each method has its pros and cons, which I am talking about when giving kittens to new homes. The way of feeding should be adapted to one's abilities, lifestyle, wallet, but always guided by the good of the cat.

1. BARF

BARF (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food). Jeżeli będą Państwo zainteresowani tą formą karmienia, zachęcam do pobrania barfnego kalkulatora ze strony https://www.barfnyswiat.org/  Tam za niewielką wpłatę na cele charytatywne można otrzymać kalkulator do przygotowywania mieszanek.

Wbrew pozorom nie jest to czarna magia, a na forach internetowych nowicjuszom pomogą doświadczone osoby.

Drugą opcją jest zakup kalkulatora meatpoit.io, który ułatwia przygotowywanie przepisów na mieszanki.

A lot of valuable information about BARF can be found here:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/barfnekorepetycje/

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQhHQJoH3UmLw80XLadTVuw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3x-FGGVsxJw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ktV8zDvHAs

Preparing blends with a calculator is not as difficult as it seems at first.

Największym wydatkiem na początku jest zakup suplementów, ale wystarczają potem na wiele kolejnych mieszkanek, więc kolejne wydatki to już tylko zakup mięsa. Suplementy można kupić na Allegro, lub bezpośrednio u dystrybutorów, np. Lunderland. Hodowla Aggio Cat*PL jest członkiem Klubu Hodowcy Lunderland https://www.lunderland.org/

2. Canned food

However, if you are not ready to prepare BARF mixtures, then the recommended form of nutrition is high-meat cans / sachets without cereals. This is especially important for sphinxes, because their energy demand is higher than in cats whose body warms the fur.

From good quality cans I recommend those checked by my cats:

• Animonda Carny 
• Animonda vom Feinsten
• Catz Finefood
• Wild Freedom
• Power of Nature
• MAC´s 
• Feringa

It is important that the meat content is at least 60-70% and that there are no cereals in the composition. It's worth reading labels carefully. Manufacturers sometimes hide weaker additives by dividing them into smaller ones so that they fall further down the list of ingredients, e.g. peas (28%), pea flakes (12%) -> that's 40% peas!

Warm water can be added to the food. Cats should drink a lot, but they don't really want to. The addition of hot water will additionally increase the temperature of the meal, bringing it closer to the optimal one - cats in nature eat a warm, freshly hunted meal, they do not have a fridge. 

3. DRY FOOD

Here the principle is similar to cans - you should choose food with a high content of meat and without grains. read labels.

• Power of Nature
• Wild Freedom
• Orijen Cat & Kitten
• Purizon
• Taste of the Wild
• Acana
• Applaws
• Josera with no grains

Once a week you can try to give yolk.

We do not give food off the table or seasoned for people. Koty nie potrzebują warzyw ani owoców, to mięsożercy.

4. WATER TO DRINK

Plain tap water is enough. If bottled, then only spring, not mineral. Water bowls should be placed further away from the food and the litter box, it is best to place the bowls in several different places so that the cat encounters them and reminds itself that it should drink. For hygienic reasons, we use porcelain or glass bowls, not plastic ones. Cats also like to drink from narrow vessels, such as cups. Any method of getting your cat to drink is fine.

Do not give milk, cream or other dairy products. Cats do not digest lactose.

Breeders identify a cat's breed and color using EMS (Easy Mind System) codes created by the International Feline Federation FIFe. The EMS code describes the cat's breed and external characteristics by specifying the color and its distribution.

In the list below, I omit codes not used for sphynxes.

The basic EMS code for sphynxes consists of:

• breed symbol
• 01-50 body color
• 6x       koloru oczu

– "ABC" - is a three-letter designation of the cat's breed (the sphynx has the symbol SPH)
– "d" - the color of the cat
– "01" - a two-digit number from 01-50 means the amount of color and/or drawing
- "6x" - eye color

(symbols 5x and 7x are not used for sphynxes)

Color symbols are:

a – blue
b – brown (chocolate)
c – lilac
d - red
e - cream
f – black tortie
g – blue tortie
h – chocolate tortie
j – lilac tortie
n – black
o – cinnamon
p – fawn
q – cinnamon (sorrel) tortoiseshell
r – fawn tortoiseshell
w – white

The amount of the basic color marked with a letter symbol is given by 3 codes:

01 - van (van) - very small amount of primary color on the body, usually characteristic patches only on the head and tail
02 - harlequin (harlequin) - patches on the body (pattern unspecified)
03 - bicolour , about half of the base color on the body.

so-called solids, i.e. cats of one color, will not have the above symbols included in the color code.

If the sphinx is tabby, its color code will include the symbol:

21 – unspecified tabby pattern

Point:

point cats are characterized by a lighter body and darker ears, mouth (the so-called mask), legs and tail, and in males also genitals. These darker spots are called points or markings. After birth, such kittens are completely light, as they grow up their skin gets darker (especially around the ears, mouth, paws, tail, testicles, i.e. in places where the body temperature is the lowest). Years later, their skin continues to darken.

31 - Burmese pointed SEPIA - cbcb
Sepia (Burmese color restriction), yellow eyes that become darker with age greener and greener.
32 - Tonkinese pointed MINK - cbcs
Mink (Tonkinese color restriction) ), aquamarine eyes (blue-green)
33 – Himalayan (Siamese) markings (Siamese pointed – cs Pointed (Siamese color restriction) -> Colourpoint, blue eyes.

Eyes color

61 - blue (deep blue)
62 - orange (copper or deep orange)
63 - eyes of different colors - e.g. one green, the other blue
64 - green (green)
66 - Tonkinese ( turquoise/aquamarine (bluish-green)  – Tonkinese eye color (cbcs)
67 – Siamese (blue/intense deep blue – Siamese eye color (cs)

Vaccination of cats *

Since when do we start vaccinating cats?

the breeder starts vaccination of the kittens after they reach 8-9 tygodni życia.

The next (re-) administration of the vaccine is performed after 3-4 weeks, i.e. approximately in 11-12 week The third vaccination should be done at 16-17 weeks.

If necessary, the last vaccination of the kitten is done at the age of 13-15 weeks .

Subsequent vaccinations are performed after a year, then every two years, unless your veterinarian recommends otherwise.

For the latest WSAVA (World Small Animal Veterinary Association) recommendations on vaccination, see here.

The composition of these vaccinations should depend on the cat's lifestyle, field and environmental hazards, and the veterinarian decides about the selection of the necessary vaccination elements.

Basic vaccination

Basic vaccinations protects against diseases that a cat can get in any environment, despite the lack of contact with representatives of its species and pose a significant threat to its health.

Basic Basic vaccinations include:

• Panleukopenia (FPLV)
• Herpesvirus (FHV)
• Calcivirus (FCV)

Supplementary vaccinations

Supplementary vaccinations are a group of vaccinations related to the cat's lifestyle and threats in its environment. This does not mean that the cat must be vaccinated against all of them. The need for supplementary vaccination is decided by a veterinarian on the basis of the situation related to the occurrence of these diseases in a given area or in a cluster of cats (kennels, shelters, kennels).

• Leukemia (FeLV)
• Rabies (R)
• chlamydiosis
• fungal infections
• Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)
• Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome (FIV) - no vaccine on our market

Diseases for which cats are vaccinated:

Panleukopenia - a highly contagious disease caused by Feline Panleupenia Virus (FPLV), characterized by a sudden onset of clinical symptoms such as apathy, abdominal pain, fever, lack of appetite, vomiting and diarrhea. Blood tests reveal a decrease in the number of leukocytes (leukopenia). The disease is often associated with high mortality.

Herpesvirus - causes infectious feline rhinotracheitis, a highly contagious feline disease caused by Feline Herpes Virus (FHV). It causes bothersome leakage of eyes and nose, which, if left untreated, leads to death from exhaustion. Treated and controlled, it remains in the cat's body for life. In favorable conditions (stress, exhibition, disease) it leads to temporary sowing or even recurrence of the disease.

Calcivirosis - caused by Feline Calcivirus (FCV) leads to inflammatory changes, ulcers and erosions on the mouth and mucous membranes of the mouth and nose. As a virus, it shows great variability.

Leukemia - The disease is caused by Feline Leucemia Virus (FeLV), leading to general destruction of the body by comorbidities whose image comes to the fore. A cat can get leukemia and remain a lifelong carrier of this disease.

Rabies - a disease affecting warm-blooded animals. It belongs to the most dangerous zoonoses (zoonoses). The disease is caused by Rabies Virus. There is no legal obligation to vaccinate cats in our country. The occurrence of disease symptoms is associated with inevitable death.

Chlamydiosis - a disease of the upper respiratory tract caused by Chlamydia psittaci. Often, a feline catarrhal disease is also caused by viruses. It poses a threat to humans as a zoonosis (zoonosis). Treatment gives good results.

Mycoses - Local and generalized diseases. If the type of mushroom is confirmed, multi-directional therapy brings satisfactory results.

Infectious Feline Infectious Peritonitis (Feline Infectious Peritonitis-FIP) - This deadly disease is caused by the feline FCoV coronavirus that resides in the gut, in which under the influence of various factors, mutations occur, creating a highly virulent form characterized by secretion.

Feline Immune Deficiency Syndrome - caused by the Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) commonly known as Feline AIDS. Infectious, chronic and incurable disease characterized by a significant impairment of the immune system with little characteristic due to diversity, clinical symptoms.

Polecam artykuł KIEDY SZCZEPIĆ KOTA: https://tiny.pl/t8jgz

Diseases for which cats are vaccinated:

Panleukopenia - a highly contagious disease caused by Feline Panleucopenia Virus (FPV), characterized by a sudden onset of clinical symptoms such as apathy, abdominal pain, fever, lack of appetite, vomiting and diarrhea (sometimes with blood) , foul-smelling and yellow. Blood tests reveal a decrease in the number of leukocytes (leukopenia). This disease is often accompanied by high mortality, most often on the 3-5th day of illness.

Herpesvirus - causes infectious feline rhinotracheitis, a highly contagious feline disease caused by Feline Herpes Virus (FHV). It causes bothersome leakage of eyes and nose, which, if left untreated, leads to death from exhaustion. Treated and controlled, it remains in the cat's body for life. In favorable conditions (stress, exhibition, disease) it leads to temporary sowing or even recurrence of the disease.

Calcivirosis - caused by Feline Calcivirus (FCV) leads to inflammatory changes, ulcers and erosions on the mouth and mucous membranes of the mouth and nose. As a virus, it shows great variability.

Leukemia - The disease is caused by Feline Leucemia Virus (FeLV), leading to general destruction of the body by comorbidities whose image comes to the fore. A cat can get leukemia and remain a lifelong carrier of this disease.

Chlamydiosis - a disease of the upper respiratory tract caused by Chlamydia psittaci. Often, a feline catarrhal disease is also caused by viruses. It poses a threat to humans as a zoonosis (zoonosis). Treatment gives good results.

Infectious Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP) - This fatal disease is caused by the feline FCoV coronavirus living in the intestine, which undergoes mutations under the influence of various factors creating a highly pathogenic character characterized by secretion.

Feline Immune Deficiency Syndrome - caused by the Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) commonly known as Feline AIDS. Infectious, chronic and incurable disease characterized by a significant impairment of the immune system with little characteristic due to diversity, clinical symptoms.

Rabies - a disease affecting warm-blooded animals. It belongs to the most dangerous zoonoses (zoonoses). The disease is caused by Rabies Virus. There is no legal obligation to vaccinate cats in our country. The occurrence of disease symptoms is associated with an inevitable death.

Mycoses - Local and generalized diseases. If the type of mushroom is confirmed, multi-directional therapy brings satisfactory results.

Other diseases: